Inganess and Brough of Birsay - 27/09/04

For the morning session, I walk out at 10 o'clock, heading east out ofthe town centre towards Inganess Bay. This takes me along the road tothe B&B where I stayed nearly 3 weeks ago. Once past there, theroad veers off right; the road to Berstane Farm carries on straightahead. When I reach a wood, filled with junk, I am confronted with asign saying "Private", and I have to backtrack a little way. Then Ijump over a gate and head south along the perifery of the wood. Cancontinue along the fence for nearly a mile, with views opening up overthe airport. To my left lies the Creag of Berstane. Also see awindturbine near Heatheryquoy Farm. Cannot go there in a direct line,but have to veer right along fencing to Inganess Farm. Once on theminor road, I head east, downhill, to the salmon farm. I can drop downto the sands of Wideford, but have to rejoin the top of the seawallafter the salmon farm. From here, a new-looking signposted walk leadsme back to Scapa. The route is punctuated by some horrendously steepstiles, but finally I arrive at the A960 road to the airport. Crossthis with care and carry on along the path. With some difficulties inorienteering, I reach the A961 Burwick road at midday. Cross with careand head into the road that leads to and past Fea Farm. From here, thetrack winds itself down a messy looking slope to Scapa Pier. This isfamiliar territory and I easily walk back to the YH on Old Scapa Road.After lunch, I join the bus which will take me to the Bishop's Palaceand nearby Brough of Birsay (on the far northwestern corner of OrkneyMainland). The bus goes past Finstown, then down the A986 along suchplaces as Doune and Twatt. People alight at various places along theway, some of them quite jolly. Many have been into town to do theirshopping, and are now lumbering it home. Reach Birsay at 2.30. A fewpeople get off here, several joining the bus for the journey back toKirkwall. First of all, I have a look inside the small church dedicatedto St Magnus. A little bare - have a look at this link http://www.birsay.org.uk/stmagnus.htm.
Also have a look inside the ruined Earl's Palace, of which only a fewfeet now remain of its walls. In every room, a little note tells thestory about it. Having walked through the ruins, I finally make my wayto the Brough. This lies about a mile west of Birsay village and is atidal island, only accessible at low tide. A concrete slabbed walkwayprovides a fairly safe if slippery access route. On arrival at theother side, I say hello to the warden and start by looking round theViking settlement, of which only foot-high walls remain. It included achurch. Then I go on a walk around the island, which has some prettyhigh seacliffs, up to 40 metres / 135 ft high. Like the views down thecoast to Marwick Head, with cliffs up to 80 metres / 265 ft high. Passthe lighthouse, where a cleft, only a few inches wide, crashes down tosealevel. The coastline is eroding badly, and you have to be verycautious. I walk along, latterly with two other people in the distance.Cross the causeway back to the mainland at 4pm, and stay behind towatch the tide coming in. Have a little walk along the coastline toSkipi Geo, where people used to store their boats high up on the shore,in a shed. Sit down with two other walkers to enjoy the afternoon sunfor a while. Then head back to the carpark to watch the tide creep in.At 4.30, the flag is taken down at the visitor centre on the Brough,and the warden cross over. Shortly afterwards, the tide covers themiddle section of the walkway. We had a cup of tea from a van sellingsausage rolls, but when we looked round again, it had gone. Hobble backto the village to wait for the 6pm bus. It's a long and chilly wait.The return journey goes along the north coast of Mainland to Evie andLoch of Swannay. Pick up ferry passengers at Tingwall and return toKirkwall at 6.50