Papa Westray revisited - 24/09/04

Went on another visit to Papa Westray today. Left on the ferry at12.30, which was advertised as going to Papay. However, due to theinclement conditions out at sea, the boat would only go as far asWestray. I insissted I was going to Papay, come hell or high water. Sooff we went, through a fairly lively crossing north to Rapness. This ismy third trip to Westray, but now I recognise the islands I pass on thevoyage. Arrive at Rapness, and am rapidly transferred to Pierowall bythe now-familiar minibus. The Golden Mariana crew are not entirelyhappy setting forth in the force 6 wind we've got going today, buttheydo go for it. Jump off at Papay, where a nurse is waiting to goback to Westray. She carries a sharps box. I head off down the road fora few hundred yards, then go down onto the beach at the head of Bay ofMoclett. At the end of the beach, I climb up to the meadows and have torun the gauntlet of a herd of cows. I dislike cows. Walk round the capeof Vestness and head north. Come across the Ministers Flag - flag as inflagstone. At one time, the minister (of the church) was notallowed on the island. However, the island's tidal area is Crownproperty - when not covered by water. So, there is this large slab ofstone where the minister would come ashore at low tide to preach to thefaithful. Pass on the edge of the cliffs below the farms of Rendall toKnap of Howar. This is a pre-historic site, an excavated village fromthe Stone Age on the coast at Holland. Nearly a mile further north, Ireach St Boniface Church, where I have to stop my northward movement.After another look inside, I return to the main road. Which I cannotuse, because a herd of cows is being moved along it at low speed. I cutthrough the fields to the foreshore at Mayback, on the eastern side ofPapay. Head down to the pier, then up the hill past Berstane and alongthe main road. At 15.50, I watch the plane take off from Papay and landon Westray 90 seconds later. This is the shortest scheduled airservicein the world, across only 2 miles. On arrival back at Moclett, I ambledown to a large loch, then sit on the beach. Golden Mariana leaves at5, to deliver me at Pierowall at 5.23. After the busride, the ferrytakes me back to Kirkwall. The weather did turn sunny but not warm inthe end. Return to town at 8 pm, in gathering darkness. Do shopping andam back in the hostel at 9.