Stronsay - 17/09/04

After the overnight rain, the world is washed clean. Head out ofWhitehall Village for a long walk. Ferry to Kirkwall is not due until 6pm. Walk down the village main street, which is characterized by a rowof neat, white-washed houses. Turn up the hill ant the end, and shortlyproceed up a side-road to Whitehall, a large farm. The road leads up toa "high" ridge (all of 43 metres / 145 ft above sea level) along whichthe island's spinal road (B9062 / B9060) runs south from the airfield.From Clestrain Farmhouse, I continue north up to the junction. It'sbright this morning and there is a nice view to the west, to Eday, fromhere. Retrace my steps and continue south past the watertower. This isa prominent feature on the Stronsay skyline, but not as conspicuous asthe windturbines at Rothiesholm. Carry on past the radiomast to theschool. Notice a dead sheep behind the hedge lining the road as Iapproach Ward Hill. As the road descends, a road brances off to theleft. Since I want to visit the Vat of Kirbister, I join this road.Overtake a lady carrying bags. Follow the signs for the Vat, through arundown looking area around Meikle Water. Go up the road towardsOdiness (farm), then turn right into the farmroad leading to Kirbuster.A cat flits into a barn at Fingeo, and another disappears amongst astack of bales. At Kirbuster, there is a track which could do with someupkeep as it heads for the coast. The coastline is punctuated byso-called gloups, of which the Vat of Kirbuster is one. Basically, as aresult of erosion, the sea eats into the coastline. The water breaksthrough a weak point, and creates a cave. When the floor collapses, agloup is created. This is a hole, through which the sea flows with thetide. When the arch collapses, which is what the Vat will be headingfor, the coast is further indented. I proceed past Two Castles, ajoined stack, again a product of erosion, and up the side of BurghHill. Head southsouthwest towards Lamb Head. A myriad of fences forceme to carefully pick my way, but the detailed Explorer map helps a lot.The time being 1pm, I walk straight into the glare of the sun. Finallymanage to gain the shoreroad. See the farm buildings at Cleat to myright. Had to choose carefully which fields to traverse - sheep are ok,but I dislike cows and bulls. Proceed west along a rough track until Icross a cattlegrid ½ mile north of Housebay. Sit down for a bit to eatas farm vehicles rumble past me. They are taking in the harvest. At2.30, I head up the farm track, which goes up past Mid House. Then itturns into the main B9060 road. After 1½ miles, I run across the localstore, which I plunder for provisions. It's turning into a very warmafternoon, and I cannot resist the temptation of the beach. So I headdown a lane at Ward Hill and end up at the southern end of a shortstretch of beach. Have some bother ploughing through the dunes to thetideline. Head north for half a mile, then have to return to the mainroad. Again lots of fun in the duens, trying not to break a leg in thenumerous rabbit holes. I regain the road via a rough track leading upto the radiomast. Take the shortest route down to Whitehall Village andsit down on a picnic bench just behofehand. Again, nice views comingdown the brae, with Sanday 6 miles to the north. Nip into the villagestores for a drink and drop my daysack off at the hostel. Go for a walkto the east of Whitehall along some dilapidated houses to what lookslike a wrecked pier area opposite Papa Stronsay. Pic up rucksack andvacate the hostel at 5 pm, to wait for the ferry round the corner. Thehostel manager comes after just as I'm about to board the ferry, askinghis key back. He's got it back, in the box on the door - as perprocedure. Pleasant little place, is Stronsay, but the hostel was adefinite turn-off. Return to Kirkwall at 7.40, after being overtaken bya jetskier outside Kirkwall harbour.