Boreraig - 02/10/04

Come downstairs to be met by the sight of a distracted warden who istaking all the hot water taps apart. Apparently, a new boiler wasinstalled only recently, but it isn't working properly. Book intohostel for the weekend, then go on the bus to Broadford at 10.20.Fifteen minutes later, I'm dropped off outside the Post Office there.Walk over to the Post Office van marked Elgol, and jump on. I ask to bedropped off at Kilchrist, 4 miles southwest of Broadford. It's a bit ofa tight squeeze on board, but that isn't going to be for a long time atany rate. Dropped off a few hundred yards beyond the church, near thereed covered Kilchrist Loch. Find the track that is supposed to lead toSuisnish on the coast, south of here. This is a derilict village,cleared of its inhabitatns in the 19th century, together with itsneighbour Boreraig. My efforts to reach Suisnish along this path arethwarted by some appalling weather. A shower kicks off, leaving me todash for relative shelter amidst the ruins of Kilchrist village. Thereis a strong westerly wind, blowing the showers over the nearby Beinn naCailleach. Once that has passed, I continue on my way, but I lose trackof the path. Find myself scrabbling on the banks of the Allt naInbhire, trying to cross. Well, I give that up as a bad job after hafan hour, and make my way cross-country to the Marble Line walkway. Thisused to be a railway carrying marble from the quarry up the hillside tothe pier at Broadford. It closed suddenly at 1912. This path is wellmaintained and signposted. After a gate, it worsens slightly to a roughhillpath. Crossing the fence at Loch Lonachan is troublesome because ofstanding water. This continues to be a nuisance, not helped by frequentheavy showers. The valley opens out, and I duly arrive into what I thoughtwas Suisnish. How wrong can you be. After checking my bearings againstvarious landmarks and their relative position, I have to concede that Iam 2 miles out and actually in the enclosure of Boreraig. Wanderthrough the sad remains of that village and try to eat something in thepouring rain. Carry on as far as the Boreraig River, then turn back.Get a massive scare outside the village, when I'm taking a break at12.52. As I look northeast, I see a fierce blob of light. About 2seconds later, a deafening crash follows. I'm in the middle of a thunderstormand there is NO shelter. I wait for the storm to move away, crouchingdown, then go on my way north. OnceI rejoin the Marble Line path, Ifeel like a train, going at 4 mph. Pass above some of the houses nearKilchrist, then the branch which leads to Coire Chatachan, below Beinnna Cailleach. The path finally ends under the high voltage power line,where I have to divert to the road. Do some shopping at the BroadfordCo-op, then join the 6pm bus back to Kyleakin. The YH is still plaguedby pipe trouble. Have a nice chat with other hostellers. One coupleoffer me a lift over to Broadford tomorrow, Sunday. This gives me thechance to do the walk to Boreraig and Suisnish properly. Weatherprospects also appear to be better.

Picture: ruins at Boreraig