From November 16, 2004, I stayed on in Lewis.
Further entries are in the main Northern Trip diary.
Continuation
Cearsiadar - 16/11/04
Woke up to a guy shouting abuse in his sleep, and someone else shooshing him. The two American ladies collected their car at 8.30, declining my overzealous offer of being their guide. I set off downtown sunny Stornoway / Steornabhagh. First to the library for a full hour's worth of Internet use. Had about 40 emails waiting. Then to various bookshops, one of which stocked Soil and Soul, a landmark work by Alistair McIntosh. He is not well known outside this region, but is a staunch campaigner for community ownership. He supported the community buy-out of the Isle of Eigg in 1996/7, and managed to stop the development of the Lingerabay superquarry. This would have seen the demolition of an entire mountain for the sake of acquiring aggregates for the building of houses and roads in the UK and beyond. I also unearthed a compilation CD by Capercaillie, my favourite folk / fusion group from these parts. Went to a gig by them, as some know, back in January. Didn't walk back to my digs, no danced home. Just as well it was 11.30pm. It's no use having a CD without the means of listening to it, so I also acquired a portable CD-player. Then there was the matter of my 3 disposable cameras, all used up, which needed to be developed and printed. I would have preferred the images to be on CD-ROM, but that means you have to wait for 3-4 days, and I don't work that far in advance with regards to planning. One shop could develop & print in 2 hours, but not the CD-ROM. Sod it, I went for the prints. The most important one is attached to this journal entry. Then I went on a walk down the harbourfront as far as the old powerstation. Sat down on the seawall and was duly joined by a nice tortoiseshell cat, a neutered tom. He rubbed against me as I sat nibbling my sandwiches, wanted to be scratched on the head and a general fuss. After that, he went down the steps to the shore, only to bolt back up them a minute later and disappear into the estate behind me. Strange animal. My bus left town at 2.20pm, heading down the road towards Tarbert. I got off at Balallan (Baile Ailean), to join the little bus into South Lochs. Recognized the driver from years ago. A ten minute journey brought me to Cearsiadar - just say KerSHAder. The hostel is part of a community building also encompassing a shop and a cafe. The volunteers in the shop also run the hostel, which is simple but comfortable. Oh, the only uncomfortable thing about the hostel is the chairs. Eugh. After a longish chat, I went inside. A run-down of things not to do:
- don't close the kitchendoor, the handle is broken
- don't switch off the light in the stairwell
- don't use the shower upstairs
- don't use the third bedroom
- don't leave the central heating on if you don't need it
Ah, it's all a laugh, really. There are only two people in the hostel now, a guy called Joe and myself. He is going round the island looking for a job and a place to live. Exchanged some stories over dinner. Joe cooked onions and potatoes with mince and shandy to drink. The television provided some entertainment, but that was about it for the night.
Through Berneray to Stornoway - 15/11/04
At 8.10 this morning, the basket-ball team left for their match at Lionacleit, Benbecula. I had barely time to catch my breath, when a new group of people marched in. Seven folk, about to set off by sea-kayak to the Monach Islands. Heard that before. I left for Lochmaddy at 10 o'clock, and headed north by postbus to Berneray one hour later. Spent about half an hour rattling the keyboard in Tigh na Chearsabhagh, the sound of which drove one person mad. Not me! Some of you may be aware I'm a fast typist (70 wpm), and it is quite a noise when I'm in my stride. The postbus lady very kindly dropped me off at the road-end in Berneray, where you can go down to the Burnside B&B (prop. Mrs McKillop) where I stayed in 1995. Memories of being asked to join in the fun at the Berneray week, in which I was nearly drowned in the Knockout. And Mrs McKillop horrified that it was her new guest, all bedraggled, asking for a cup of soup afterwards. Now there was nothing in that field. Only a selection of rams. It's that time of the year when the rams are put to the ewes. Yep, necessary, else you don't get those cute little lambs in spring. The rams have a block of waxy dye bound to their chest. When the ram does his job, the dye rubs on to the ewe's shoulder, and thus the farmer knows that she has been served. The sheep on Berneray do not have horns, they have large black floppy ears, which gives them a funny look. It was quite chilly out there in the field, so I quickly hobbled back to the ferry terminal and waited for the MV Loch Portain to turn up at 1.20 to take me to Leverburgh. There was a fair queue of traffic waiting to go, including a fuel tanker. This led to a complete ban on smoking on board. You are normally allowed to smoke on the outer deck. The ferry made a tortuous and at times slow journey across the Sound of Harris, circumventing reefs and other underwater dangers. It took an hour, arriving at Leverburgh at 2.20. Had to wait for 40 minutes for the bus to depart north to Stornoway. Forgot to mention that at 1pm the sun came out, and it made the crossing quite beautiful. When the bus finally departed it was a picture postcard journey, with the beaches and views of West Harris in a hazy late autumn light. The sands were yellow, not white, due to the light. Arrived in Tarbert at 3.40, left there a few minutes later. The trip through the mountains was quite familiar, from my earlier journey in August of this year. After Balallan darkness began tofall. Arrived in Stornoway at 4.50. There were only a few other people on the bus. The route can be very busy in summer, with the driver giving a running commentary on the scenery. Now he greets every local customer by name. Having done the shopping, I headed for my hostel for the night. Fairhaven, on Francis Street. Easily found, but not exactly a model for organisation. Had to wait for 2 hours for the proprietors to turn up to take payment. Went for a very good meal at the Crown Hotel in the meantime. There were two dorms in the place, one being taken up by Polish workers in the local fish factory. The kitchen was a pokey little place, with dry rot up the walls. Yuk. The kettle was filled with brown water, although the tapwater was clear. Yuk again. Went to bed early, Stornoway is not noteworthy for its nightlife. Oh, gave two USA lassies some advice re. a trip around the island by car
Trumisgarry - Remembrance Sunday 14/11/04
Remembrance Sunday dawned wet and windy. A force 5-7 wind, with gusts up to 8 was blowing drizzle across the island. I would have liked to have gone to a Remembrance Sunday commemoration, but it was being held at Clachan, 8 miles away. I decided to walk down the road towards Berneray, starting at 10.15. Oh, forget to tell there were two house movers in the hostel last night, and a strange character dossing down on the couch. Along the road to Berneray, I noticed an otter lolloping through a saltmarsh near Trumisgarry. Went down the road to some cemeteries and the beach. Walked down the beach, with the wind buffeting me. Sat down amidst the sanddunes and took it easy. For more than an hour. Then, I retraced my steps past the cows and the cemeteries. A sheepdog began to follow me, jumping up at me, quite friendly. He even managed the cattle-grids, but left me at the road junction. Then a black kitten dashed across the road and hid amongst the long grass. I found it and tickled it. It finally shot out again after a minute's play. 100 yards further on, a dead mouse lay in the road. You don't see this sort of thing from a car. Trudged the remaining 7 miles back to Lochmaddy in fitful rain and failing light. On return, at 4.15, I ran into Mairi who told me that a class of schoolkids would be in the hostel tonight. And they duly materialized. No trouble at all, they were due to play an early game of basketball at Lionacleit in Benbecula, to return to the mainland on the ferry at lunchtime. Went to bed at 11.
Balranald RSPB Reserve - 13/11/04
Back in Taigh Chearsabhag in Lochmaddy to update the journal. On Saturday, I took the postbus out to Balranald, located on the west side of North Uist. This is an area of working crofts, but world famous as a nature reserve. The RSPB (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds) manage it. The little postbus rattled out at 11 am, after I had done my weekend shop. The shop here is quite dear, £6 for just a few groceries. On driving round the northern side of the island, the wide sandy beaches spring into view after passing the Berneray road-end. Once you turn the northwestern corner, beyond Sollas, St Kilda hoves into view. This group of islands, with cliffs of over 1,000 ft high, was abandoned in 1930. The inhabitants at the time asked to be taken of because of disease and starvation. Starvation contributed to by neglect by government, allegedly. The isles lie about 45 miles away, but stand out like a set of snaggled teeth on the western horizon. Another notable sight is Scolpaig Tower, set in the middle of a lochan, with a causeway leading up to it. Arrived at Balranald at midday. It was quite empty, but the day is bright. A nature trail leads up to the coastline. Not many birds about, just some swans and some starlings. Sat on the rocky foreshore with my back to the strong northerly wind and my face in the warm sun. Bliss. Temperature 12C. Spent an hour of lounging about, watching showers pass by into Benbecula and observing the tall lighthouse on the Monach Isles. The latter was actually found abandoned in 1900. When the light was never extinguished during the daytime, a boat was sent across to investigate. A table was set with plates and food, and lights were still burning. The three men tending the tower were nowhere to be found, and have never been recovered. It is assumed that they had to go out and were swept away by a huge sea. Walked back to the Visitor Centre and the road end to wait for the postbus back. Although this departed at 2.30, it would not return to Lochmaddy much before 4pm. The reason being that it had to go round the houses to deliver mail. The usual spectacle developed of postie (a lady) being splattered with mud by overfriendly dogs, gates having to be opened and mail left just inside the front door. One door was locked, so the mail was left inside a Volkswagen Beatle on the drive. Like you do. We also called at the home of the island's proprietors, the Boulmers (?). And at a farm, near Scolpaig Tower, where a 95-year gent still lived on his own, albeit with home help. Postie was only inside for 2 minutes, a record fast visit. Being the local gossip, he wanted to know all the news. One other gentleman, it transpired, had recently passed away, and the community was saddened by their loss. Returned to Lochmaddy at 4, and spent the rest of the evening in the UOC.
Eriskay - 12/11/04
After breakfast, I decided to dump the gloom and go and make something of the day. Jumped on a bus, which was the first of three to take me down to Eriskay, 3 hours away. First to Clachan, then a McDonalds bus to Lochboisdale, and finally a vehicle to Eriskay. After Clachan there are a number of causeways to take you across to Grimsay and Benbecula (Beinn na Faoghla) and finally South Uist. On South Uist, there is the tracking station for the missiles and two high hills (2000 ft plus) called Beinn Mhor and Hekla. You can't miss them. Lochboisdale is an unsightly little place, where the Oban ferry calls. Eriskay is very nice, got there at 12.45. Linked to South Uist by causeway for a few years, the islanders love it. The weather was awful though. Galeforce northwesterly, frequent showers and 9C. The windchill made it feel more like minus 1C. Struggled to Haunn, where the old ferry terminal was, blocked by a huge sandbar. Back to Balla (Village), where I had a cup of soup in the pub Am Politician, named after the famous whisky boat which was wrecked off Eriskay in 1941, leaving it for the islanders to help themselves to the booze. Read "Whisky Galore" by Compton McKenzie. Incidentally, the word galore is of Gaelic origin, gu leoir meaning plenty. Had a walk down towards the Barra ferry terminal, along a stretch of very pretty beach. Pity about the gale though. Ferry to Ard Mhor had been cancelled for the day, as had many other ferries as it turned out later. Hobbled back through a very painful hailshower to the shop, then jumped on the bus. This took me all the way up to Clachan, but with some bloody long stops along the way. One gentleman joined me who would have gone on the Oban ferry, but this had been cancelled. He would go to Lochmaddy, but was worried about where to stay. I showed him to the hostel, once we got there at 6.10. He was quite grateful. We stopped also at the school at Linnacleit on Benbecula, where we could have a cuppa. Next to the swimming pool. Felt like a dip!
Berneray and Lochmaddy - 11/11/04
After a huge breakfast at 8.30 I went to Taigh Chearsabhagh, the local museum and arts centre. Had a cuppa and dabbled on the internet there, but didn't have time to update journal. Jumped on the 11.05 postbus to Berneray, with the half-formed idea of moving into the hostel there. Not a good idea, as I found out on arrival there. The hostel was quite basic and lacked a toilet. Otherwise a nice, rustic little place. But I'm not prepared to bare my all to the elements on the rocks of the foreshore thank you. Berneray holds some happy memories for me from my 1995 visit, when I was dragged into the "It's a Knockout" competition, which nearly drowned me. No-one about this time, it's cold and wet today. Went for a walk towards the northern end of the island, but turned back in order not to miss the 3pm bus back. Sheltered in the hostel until bus-time, chatted to an old farmer along the way by the way. Left a pound for day-use and jumped on the Grenitote bus to Sollas. The driver, a pleasant lady called Catherine, also did the schoolrun. Five primary school kids jumped on board at the school, and were dropped off at various points. One in Lochmaddy. A man was offered a lift, with the question: "to the shop or to your mum?". He needed the shop. At Sollas was transferred to another bus which dropped me at the Outdoor Centre. Now it was occupied - by the proprietors .They told me the door was never locked. Sure. Anyway, got a roof over my head. The only thing is the lack of adequate heating. The computer doesn't give access to secure sites (like AOL), so I'm very restricted. Some readers may have had email from me on a Yahoo! username; feel free to reply on that. Not terribly impressed, but you can't have it all. Am alone tonight, which suits me fine. Foul mood today.
Location, location, location - 10/11/04
Woke up to a bright and sunny morning, a complete contrast to yesterday's wintery situation. Today I'm relocating - to Lochmaddy, North Uist, Western Isles. Walked to Fort William at 9 o'clock, leaving Glen Nevis for the final time on this visit. The bus to Uig left at 10.15 and took me on a wonder tour through the wild west of Scotland. It was fantastic. The sun was out and put everything in a beautiful autumn hue. The Great Glen, Loch Garry, from the viewpoint on the A87 beyond Invergarry, Cluanie, Glen Shiel and Skye. Sgurr nan Gillean cast a shadow at 1pm which almost reached the road. The sun was that low. Reached Uig at 1.45, and had to wait for the Lochmaddy ferry for about half an hour. Not many were going that afternoon. At 2.15 footpassengers were transferred to the Hebrides in a minibus. Once the ferry had docked, the walkway was hoisted up and we could go on board. The crossing was totally unremarkable, hardly any swell. Arrived into Lochmaddy at dusk at 4.40. Walked to the Uist Outdoor Centre, where things went pearshape. The door was locked, the building was in darkness and nobody about. Rather disgruntled I withdrew to the nearest phonebooth and rang the proprietors, or tried to. Neither phonenumber was answered .Oh. So I relocated to the Lochmaddy Hotel for the night, and determined to sort this stupid problem out the next day. Waitress at the hotel snatched plate from under me nose before I had finished it, and you cannot remonstrate with a full mouth, can you now. Bad end to the day.
Winter in the hills - 09/11/04
Today was allocated to serious hillwalking. At 8.20, I left the hostel for an attempt to climb Stob Ban, a 999m high mountain to the south of Glen Nevis. The weather forecast looked rather dire; showers, as snow above 2,000 ft. Not to be daunted, I ambled the 40 mins down the Glen Nevis road to Mamore Grazings by the Lower Falls, where I turned onto the path leading towards Stob Ban. At 9.05, I started the climb, and got the first of many showers. The path was very wet, boggy and waterlogged. Had fun and games traversing some of the streams, and nearly ended up in one of them. Wobbly boulder. Just after 10 o'clock, there was another shower, and I looked around what was going on. There was a funny noise on my hood, it didn't sound like a raindrop. No. It was snowflakes. They settled on my mapcase, the rucksack, everything. Temperature had dropped to 5C. Staggered at the presence of the snow, I nonetheless carried on. The fact that it was still above freezing meant that the snow would not settle. Wound my way up the hillside and got seriously high. At 11 o'clock, just under two hours after starting the climb proper, I reached the pass at altitude 750 m (2,500 ft). Fantastic views. Stob Ban reared up high to my right, only to immediately disappear into a snow-shower. Another Munro loomed to the left. And the paths did NOT conform to their location on the map. To the south I saw Loch Leven and the Lairig from Kinlochleven to Lundavra. Absolutely breathtaking. Sat out the snowshower, which I did NOT enjoy. It's very cold now (+3C), particularly in the wind. Once the shower had passed, I started the climb towards the peak, which initially was a steep but simple and straightforward ascent. At altitude 850m (2850 ft) things got a little more complicated. The grass disappeared and the path went into a hillside covered by boulders, white stone as it happened. I got an increasing feeling of exposure, due to the steep slopes falling away on either side. Having taken stock of my position, the time (11.30) I decided to carry on into the scrambly bits. However, by this time, wisps of cloud began to rise from the hillside to the south. Those wisps blew up in size and obliterated the view. That was the point where I thought to myself: "Not happy with that". I still had about 100m to climb, in (for me) difficult terrain. If one of those clouds came over and obliterated the view again, it could take a long time to clear. I'd seen the peak wreathed in mist for a considerable period of time. So I took the decision at 11.40 to retrace my steps. I went back to the cairn at the crossing of paths where I'd come up from Glen Nevis, then proceeded onwards to the little lochan a few hundred yards east. An inviting path wound its way up a hillside to the next Munro, 1,001m high, but then the third snowshower commenced. It meant business. Temperature dropped to +2 at my location (800m) and the snow settled just above my height. Lunch was freezing cold on the edge of the lochan, I've never felt so cold on a walk. Not enjoyable at all. IT WAS SO COLD. I went down towards Glen Nevis again, and found the temperature rising as I went down. Was overtaken by a very fast walker at 2pm, and two not so fast ones at 2.30. Got down to the road at 3pm, after a very wearying slog downhill. Reported my safe return at 3.50 in the hostel, then went into town for the shopping. Returned to a virtually empty Glen Nevis YH at 5.45. Met a lady from Taiwan who was quite rude about the staff in the Tourist Office in Fort William. She wanted to stay on a working farm. Yep. In November, oh please, get real. They'll be out with their sheepdogs, sure! Small wonder the TIC couldn't help. I made a few suggestions, but to no avail, I think. A farm at Invergarry, she was looking at (30 miles from here) or Spean Bridge (12 miles). And she wanted to know at what time breakfast was served. Only to groups. Get some cereals from reception. Sorry, I'm not normally that rude about fellow hostellers, but this lady just did not realize she had come at the wrong time of year.
Check the below link for pictures of Glen Nevis
Cow Hill - 08/11/04
This morning, my erstwhile companion of Orkney days (September) took herself off and away to Glencoe. To my surprise. Even more so when she told me that initially it had been her intention to climb the Ben. OK, go with the wind, that's the spirit of the true traveller. I wished her well.
I whisked myself off to downtown Fort William for the Monday shopping. Found some very useful mending tape for a tear in my waterproofs. Should teach me to sit on sharp rocks. It's the second that's happened. At around midday, I tootled off to Cow Hill, because the weather today is absolutely brilliant. In comparison to previous days, that is. The sun is out and it is not too bad. Just some wisps of cloud around the highest slopes of Ben Nevis and some fishhook cirrus at the 30,000 ft mark. As time wore on, the wisps of cloud at 4,000 ft sank to about 3,000 and thickened to a typical cumulostratus layer with holes. On arrival on Cow Hill, 287 m, I had a fantastic view all around. Saw far up Glen Albyn (the Great Glen). It presented an image that I always associate with the Misty Mountains in Tolkien's books. Row upon row of valley marching away in the far distance. Could clearly see Corpach and Caol, Inverlochy and a bird's eye view of Fort William. Cow Hill stands literally on the doorstep of the town. To the south, Loch Linnhe stretched away; Loch Eil was partially obscured by the Ardgour hills on the other side of the water. Magnificent. Slowly trudged down the hill and turned left to go down into Glen Nevis. Took my bonny time doing it, although the descent into the Glen was viciously steep. Mind your step! Returned to the hostel as night fell, having made some detours up the forestry roads. Hostel is very quiet as yet. Over the weekend it was quite full. On Saturday evening, people had to be turned away. To be fair, several rooms are out of use because the bunkbeds need to be replaced.
Glen Nevis - 07/11/04
Walked up to an Iron Age fort off the West Highland Way. It is located on top of a hill 350m high, and a commanding position. Then worked my way down through the forest below, which was well-nigh impossible. Walked along the forestry road to the Lower Falls, which were in spectacular spate. A walk along the south bank of the River Nevis was once again a soppy affair. By 4pm, I had reached the end of the Glen Nevis road. Bats and long-tailed tits were flying about in the gathering dusk. I left at 4.20 for the hostel. Thanks to some kind-hearted folk I reached it at 5.20, whereas without the lift it would have been nearer 6pm. The weather: low cloud over the hills, temperature 13-14C and little wind. There was some drizzle.
Cow Hill and Glen Finnan - 06/11/04
This morning dawned a little grey, with clouds down very low. I decided to go to Fort William for a bit of shopping, but not to take the usual route down Glen Nevis. Instead, I took a route I discovered yesterday, being the West Highland Way northbound, and at the junction of paths 1 miles west of the Ben Nevis Visitor Centre turn up the hill towards Cow Hill. This path is very steep, and it is half an hour of stiff climbing. Almost as steep as the path to Ben Nevis, but not as long. On reaching the top, the transmitter masts on the top of Cow Hill (287m) were shrouded in clouds. Therefore I didn't feel there was any point going there - you wouldn't be able to see a thing. Instead, I continued to follow the path, until within sight of the Lundavra Road. Had a cup of tea there and looked out just underneath the cloud cover. At 10.35 carried on towards Upper Achintore, the little estate just before town. Reached Fort William some 20 minutes later and bought a belt, a compass and a little thermometer. It was 12C outside, and remained that temperature all day. The train to Glen Finnan left at 12.05 and reached there at 12.30. At Glenfinnan Station, about half a mile west of the famous viaduct, there are two old railway carriages. One doubles as a restaurant, the other as a hostel. Quite cramped, according to stories I heard later. Hobbled down the road and came across a war-memorial, which had the inscription on the reverse side, not underneath the figure of the soldier. Then walked down towards, well, a settlement actually called Slatach. It has a dinky little post office and a pier for cruises on Loch Shiel. And the Glen Aladale Hotel. And a Visitor Centre that's closed till Easter 2005. Not to forget the monument for the Highlander, with a pompous inscription about Bonnie Prince Charlie, where I went "tut, tut". BPC was an overrated fool, absolutely not universally supported across the Highlands. At 2pm, having seen all there was to see in the area, I set off north up Glen Finnan. The weather was dreich, a steady drizzle falling as I went north. The clouds, as stated before, were well down, so any views were completely obscured. Reached Glen Finnan Lodge about 40 minutes after setting off, and the little bothy. One with electricity would you believe. Popped inside for a minute and boiled some water for a cuppa. A bothy is spartan. There is no running water, no toilet (yep, do it in the rushes and bury any waste), no fire (do it yourself) and no beds. Just a space a little up from the floor. There is this hole under the door of this one, to give access for bloody rats. Two guys came in a minute after me to spend a few days bonding. Good God. One chopped up some firewood and started quite an acceptable fire. I left at 3.15, in order not to miss my train. Oh well, it wasn't due to leave till 5, but it's dark at five. Sat about in the hills just before the viaduct, then proceeded to the station. Spoke to a man, a ghillie, who was waiting for his sons. One to come off the Mallaig train, the other to come off the Fort William train. Both trains cross over at Glenfinnan. The hostel carriage was full tonight. Returned to Fort William in good time at 5.30, and did the shopping in Safeways, just next to the station actually. The walk to the hostel took place in darkness, but got back there unscathed at 6.50. I keep cursing the drivers who put their foglights on, which will illuminate the road, but they badly dazzle me. One very kindly put his down for a second.
Glen Nevis - Guy Fawkes' Day - 05/11/04
Left the hostel this morning with the intention of going down the glen and perhaps going up a hill. Walked up the first few hundred yards of the West Highland Way, then branched off down a forestry trail. This brought me down to the Lower Falls, 4 miles. Prefer the forest, as it means not having to duck into the verge for cars or having to avoid rampaging sheep. Then, I went up the hill towards Stob Ban, 999m. It would have been an excellent day, if the weather had been amenable. But it wasn't. Drizzle, rain and low cloud spoiled it unfortunately. I made a slow ascent up the valley, until I hit a very precarious river crossing - fluted rocks, covered with moss. Oh my. Didn't fancy slipping on that and ending up 100 feet down, no thanks. So I turned back, also because of the weather. Having made a lazy afternoon, I finally set off for Fort William, again along the forestry track, at 2.45. Got into town at about 4.25, as it was getting dark. The return trip, between 4.50 and 5.40 took place in darkness, and I did NOT carry a torch, so I was practically blind. Very scary. The fireworks were starting off just as I went back.
Wet Highlands Way (Kinlochleven - Glen Nevis) - 04/11/04
Blast from the past last night as I found a hosteller I met in Kirkwall returning to haunt me here in Glen Nevis. Left at 9.30 in decidedly iffy weather to go to town to catch the 10.45 bus to Kinlochleven. The shopping came first, then followed the 50 minute drive to Kinlochleven through some atrocious weather. Bus 44 goes through South Ballachulish and Glencoe Village, before heading east along the southern shore of Loch Leven. Roadworkers had invented a system to protect themselves from racing traffic: only allowing it through behind a works-van, in convoy. Arrived in Kinlochleven at 11.40, only to leave the town straightaway on the West Highlands Way, WHW. The second stream posed a problem for me and another walker, as it was too deep and wide to cross. So we teamed up and walked along the road to the access road for the Mamores Hotel. When we reached the junction with the WHW, she gave up due to lack of puff, and I carried on up the hill. It was quite some climb, leveling out at 900 ft (270m) altitude. From there on, the path was more or less level. There were nice views back to Kinlochleven, between the showers. One of those, which nearly washed my lunch away at 1pm, contained sleet. Slivers of ice sat on my waterproofs. I marched off at a pace down the track towards the Lairig, passing two ruinous buildings. At 3pm, after an innumerable sequence of streams and fords, I returned to Lundavra. A brief respite and a brilliant rainbow, and I was off again. I'm in such a crashing hurry due to restricted daylight hours. At 5pm it'll be dark. Went through the forestry plantations, and as I came out above Glen Nevis, the light started to fail. Cars headlights could be seen heading down the Glen and lights came on in houses. As I returned to Glen Nevis YH, it turned dark.
Glen Nevis - 03/11/04
Today I was asked to move my stuff to a different room within the hostel, after which I set forth on today's outing. The weather was poor, drizzle at 8.45, which increased in intensity all the while. In other words, it was sogging wet. I headed south into Glen Nevis. There was this gaggle of sheep stampeding down the road again. I decided to take an alternative route after the Lower Falls. There is this path on the southern bank of Water of Nevis. It is being improved, and looks very nice to start with. After a few hundred yards though, it reverts to a boggy affair, and after the wooden bridge half way to the car park, it turns into a hit and miss affair. At one point, I sank into a bog and the mud got right into my boot. I had hoped to cut through to the Steall Falls, but the going got outright impossible. Bogs, trees, steep hills. And after the fencing started to march straight up the hill, everything got rather vertical. I decided to be more cautious and turned back. Played about with a rivulet of rainwater, then crossed the river and went on to the carpark. After that, I proceeded along the path and came out by the cable-bridge. This was being used by a group; you won't get me on that for any money. The river is very deep underneath and fast flowing. Had my lunch there, then decided to turn back. I still have to do my shopping. On the way to the carpark met somebody who was definitely taking the wrong turn. Climbed from the carpark a little way up the path along the waterfall. There is a chipped police notice with dire warnings about it. All justified incidentally. The path is a pig, and you cannot afford to go wrong there. Noticed a crag-bound sheep very high up a hill. At 2.45, I went on my way. Met some girls in a car who were looking for Ben Nevis. Not visible from the road, sent them on to Corpach for a view, if there is any. The Lower Falls were spectacularly in spate. Headed up the road, past the hostel at 4.10 and into Fort William, which I reached at dusk at 4.55. Did the shopping in Safeways, then went back along a very dark Glen Nevis road, to return to the hostel at 6pm. The spagetti bolognese was a burned disaster.
Oh, my illegal action yesterday. Grin. I walked along the railway track for a mile or so. The path running parallel was practically unusable. If caught, I would have incurred a £200 fine. Lots of people walk along the track between Corrour and Tulloch, which you can do with relative impunity. Provided you observe the traintime, beware of any goodstrains and get the hell off the tracks if you hear a train coming. There was a trackworkers hut, which had been wrecked in a gale.
On a naturalistic note, the autumn colours are spectacular, even if the leaves have started to fall now. The lorks are shedding their needles, and the birches their leaves. The air was full of them, as were the rivers. There are spectacular lichens on the trees, demonstrative of very clean air. Similar growths were conspicuous on Rum last week. Bracken is red/brown and dead. Blackberries, which were very good in October are now nearly gone. In this area, there are hardly any broadleaf trees, it's nearly all sitka spruce, lork, birch and alder. Saw quite a few buzzards, there are also kestrels about. Rabbits do not live in Glen Nevis, but have seen them ad nauseam in the islands.
Caol and Corrour - All Saints (2nd November) 2004
Not quite sure what to do first thing this morning, as I need to go shopping first of all. It was foggy, but that just turned out to be a lazy cloud, sitting on the ground. Headed into town by about 9, and did the shopping in Tesco's. After a bout on the Internet in the library headed off along the Great Glen Way towards Banavie and Corpach. Not a very inspiring start, along a dirty stretch of water, derelict land and dreary housing estates. Then you've got to cross several large rivers, the Lochy and the Nevis. Finally, you come to beat the streets of Caol. I did not misspell that, it is Caol. Caol means narrows. Ended up on Banavie station at 11.23, with a southbound train due in at 11.43. A free ride into Fort William, then £8.90 return to Corrour. On arrival there, at 12.50, I first of all head off down the road towards Loch Ossian, and am pleasantly surprised at the alterations at the Youth Hostel. On my last visit, you had to go to the toilet into a bucket, and a standing invitation to pee on the grass for the gents. Nowadays, there is a compost toilet, which does require the doors of the privy, next to the warden's cottage, to be open at all times bar when occupied. It's all double glazed now. The hostel itself is shut, but it appears to have been done up magnificently. The old Aga has been thrown out and superseded by a gasfired appliance. Loch Ossian YH closed just two days ago, so I've missed a chance. Briefly spoke to the warden on the way in, he lives there all the time. On return to the station, it was only 2pm, so I decided on a walk. Or so I thought. It was so impossibly boggy, that it took me 10 minutes to cover 100 yards. Noticed a guy walking the railway tracks, who had walked in from Glen Nevis YH. He had started at 6.10am, aiming to do a Munro on the way. Decided to carry on instead. As I've been up Glen Nevis yesterday, I recognized all the peaks from the distance. Incredible. I did something quite illegal, but on return to the station I chatted to the intrepid walker for a bit whilst waiting for the 3.37 to Fort William. There was a glorious sunset. Return to the Fort at 4.22.
Glen Nevis - All Saints (1st November) 2004
Try this for the third time, AOL keep losing me 15 minutes worth of typing. Grrrr.
So, left the hostel at 8.25 to go as far down Glen Nevis as time allows. Weather fine, but low cloud over the hills. Reached carpark at 9.40, only a campervan there. Plenty of notices to say that this is a fatally dangerous area. Only if you don't exercise common sense. You've got to be careful on the section down the gorge, rocks and wet. But after that, just enjoy the scenery. There is this secluded house only approachable by cable-bridge. Quite near the Steall Falls. Ben Nevis and Aonach Beag slowly materialise. Binnein Beag (conical) and Mor turn up later on. Came across a gaggle of young Dutchmen at the Steall ruins about to climb Aonach Mor. Which, funnily enough, is 40ft lower than Beag. Stopped for lunch, and turning point, between Aonach Beag and Binnein Mor. Sat there roasting in the sunshine between 12 and 1.30, and found the return journey easier as I found drier paths. At the house, found two elderly folks wading across Water of Nevis. Reached the carpark at 3.15, and had a cup of tea. Finally returned to the hostel at 4.40. On the way back, I had to slow a car down, to prevent it careering into a herd of sheep which was stampeding across the road. Supper tonight? Baked beans, had courgettes with tomatoes and rice last night.
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